Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Coexisting: The Aminal Kingdom

Asian elephant.

In Myanmar, living with animals just goes without saying. They are so integral to the daily life and thrum and vibe of the country, that you start to not even notice them after a while. The dogs and cats wander freely - into restaurants, markets, homes. The water buffalos plow fields. The oxen pull carts. The horses lead carriages. The pigs, goats, roosters, chickens, ducks and bunnies all scamper afoot and command the right-of-way on the roads and paths. And the monkeys - oh the monkeys. They wreak havoc.

My favorite, by far, are the elephants. Asian elephants are smaller than their African brethren by half, and yet are far from diminutive. Their presence is commanding, always. Their eyes wise, without fail. During my jaunt to the coast of the Bay of Bengal, my two traveling companions and I had the opportunity to visit the most amazing elephant camp, located near Ngwe Saung beach. This camp had eight elephants, ranging in age from 2 to 12. The mahouts (elephant trainers) worked with them each day from 4:00 a.m. until noon, domesticating them to be affable gentle giants. At 16, the elephants will go to work in the logging industry. But until then, they are free to just be elephants for the most part. At noon when their training time is up, they are turned out into the unfenced jungle to frolic as they may. Most of the time, they head for the river to cool and bathe themselves. Sometimes, however, they wander off to join their wild counterparts in the area (there is a herd of about 500 wild elephants living in the same vicinity). The clever souls that they are, they've taught themselves to silence the bells they wear around their necks by stuffing them with foliage. It's a trick that buys them a little bit of time to spend with their wild friends until their mahouts track them down (the trainers have to climb trees to survey the area and call out the elephants names). But sweet beasts, they always return.





Rhesus Macaque monkeys, Mt. Popa.







Nga Phe Kyaung or "Jumping Cat Monastery," Inle Lake.







One of the three uncaged boa constrictors at the Paliek Temple outside of Mandalay.

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